Mery Cruz, Calle de Léon
Although certainly not unique, this small canteen bar is a good place for a cheap lunch, and the calamares and tortilla were both filling and good. The television and smoking at the cheap veneer bar clearly go with the territory, but are bearable.
This is all good, because despite my current status, I cannot stand being around weekend tourists when I am trying to settle into a place and work out what the locals do.