Chocolateria St Ginés, Plaza St Ginés
Another one of Lonely Planet's suggestions, this place lives up to its billing as all-night (well, until 4 a.m.) drop-in for chocoholics, with universal appeal. I just fancied a hot chocolate, and was glad to discover that this place is much nicer inside, once you get used to the bright lighting, than it looks from the outside. I was even more glad to discover that what appeared to be a really weak hot chocolate just needed a stir, because the milk was all on top. Really it was just thick rich chololate sauce that is normally intended for churros, with a dash of milk as a concession to it being ordered as a drink. Very Good.